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Modifikasi Huawei E220
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kabeh neng kene berlaku:
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

Modifikasi Modem Huawei E220

[Image: E220.jpg]

Modem Huawei E-220 merupakan modem GSM HSDPA paling handal dikelasnya, namun ada sedikit kekurangannya ketika kita ingin memperoleh sinyal GSM yang lebih baik; yaitu bahwa modem ini tidak memilki port untuk external antenna. Kemudian saya memutuskan untuk mencoba melakukan eksperimen memodifikasinya dengan cara yang sangat sederhana, namun demikian hasilnya ternyata diluar dugaan... sinyalnya jadi keren banget.

Caranya adalah sebagai berikut :

1. Siapkan plat aluminium yang tipis (saya menggunakan bekas kaleng minuman ringan); digunting persegi panjang dengan ukuran kira kira 2,0 cm x 6 cm (sebesar ukuran photo).

2. Lubangi plat aluminium tipis tersebut untuk mengikatkan kabel. Dan selanjutnya siapkan 2 buah kabel kecil sepanjang 30 cm (saya menggunakan kabel utf bagian dalam); salah satu ujungnya diikatkan ke plat aluminium.

3. Plat Aluminium dilipat dua (transversal) pada bagian tengah; gunanya adalah ketika dia dimasukkan kedalam modem maka plat tersebut akan diam (tidak bergerak).

4. Tempatkan plat aluminium tipis didalam modem dan menempel pada plat pembuang panas. Sedangkan kabelnya dibuat menjulur keluar dari modem.

5. Tutup kembali modem dan kabel digulungkan pada body modem.

[Image: SANY0012.jpg]

Untuk lebih jelasnya lihat gambarnya. Hasilnya adalah diluar dugaan saya ternyata didalam rumah memperoleh sinyal HSDPa (3G) dalam keadaan Full yang sebelumnya paling paling hanya dapat 1 bar saja. Koneksi intenernetnya mencapai kecepatan 7.2 Mbps dan donload lancar sekali walaupun pada siang hari.

[Image: SANY1478.jpg]

[Image: huaweie220.JPG]

[Image: Telkomsel.JPG]
Snap pada Malam Minggu 27/02/2010 Saat Traffic lagi Ramai

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Cara Liyane: [Basa Landa]

Modern USB Data Sticks don’t seem to come with external antenna jacks these days. This is a real shame for geeks like me who want better signals and are prepared to procure external antennas to ensure high quality signals.

This project is to ensure that we can have 24 x 7 comms on the boat this summer without resorting to hanging USB modems out of portholes. Metal, as most people know, shields RF extremely well so external antennas are the only way to go. I have already made the necessary internal IT mods to the boat to ensure we have connectivity with a new Dell machine and a wireless router, shared on one of the ethernet ports. A second ethernet card connects to the router as a client to put the Dell back on the corrrect subnet as the rest of the wireless laptops (which are on the “wrong” side of the router). A spin off to all this is that our Orange Blackberry’s will connect to the router, delivering a UMA connection meaning that we will have at least four devices connected internally. Voice calls will be almost impossible via UMA unless we have a very smart connection.

Learning from a mutual friend of mine currently travelling from Alaska to Japan on his Nordhavn, we will share out our WiFi connection with our convoy and friends who we will meet along the way. And why not :)

[Image: The_SSB_hinge.jpg]

Of course, I already have a good 2.4Ghz antenna for the reception of WiFi signals and this will remain connected to the Dell’s WiFi card if (and when) we manage to secure a good quality marina WiFi signal but the USB stick will supply almost as good as home broadband, depending on availability. Some people will know that I have a deep knowledge of WiFi security auditing and I will, as a matter of course “test” out the security of most of the WiFi hotspots we happen to come across as part of my learnings. And if you believe that, you’ll believe anything.

Anyway, I digress. What I needed was the facility to have good signal strength to the Huawei E220, hence this successful antenna mod.

If you came here from Google, you will want to know the ins-and-outs. I can tell you this is a genuinely very easy mod if you have prepared all your tools and have an hour to play with. Like all modification projects, the key is not to rush.

First, lever off the protective branded cover. I used a sharp knife to start breaking the sticky seal. Be carefull you don’t cut yourself. It comes off quite easily with a sort of unsticking sound. Ignore the little tab at one end, it’s only a positional tab and doesn’t do anything mechanical.

Next, observe the very small Torx style screw that holds the covers together. Initially, you might find they are covered in a sticky paper washer affair, this is just the remnants of the branded cover. Pick them out with a sharp knife.

Now, even my very tiny, small torx screwdriver didn’t manage to uncrew these torx screws, I reverted to using a tiny jewellers screwdriver which just managed to catch the sides of the Torx screw head and I carefully unscrewed it. I have read that some people have just snapped the case open but I wanted to keep it all in one piece. If you can find a teeny-weeny screwdriver, it is worth trying to get this out.

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[Image: Dsc_7122.jpg][Image: Dsc_7124.jpg][Image: Dsc_7129.jpg]

Next, I took out the SIM card and put a very large screwdriver blade inside the opening and started to snap all the mechanical catches apart. Within a few seconds, I had this apart - it is not difficult. Just be careful and work steadily. You don’t need to be strong, just work slowly.

You will see when the device is apart, a weird antanna located opposite the USB connector built around some clear perspex type material. Again, this comes off with the same tiny screwdriver you managed to open the case with via the two torx screws each side of the antenna. I suppose if you had to, you could break this antenna off to do this mod but frankly, if you are a technical sort of person, you should have a teeny screwdriver capable of fitting this torx screw. They came out pretty easily.

[Image: Dsc_7137.jpg][Image: Dsc_7164.jpg][Image: Dsc_7166.jpg]

For the technical antenna people reading this, I found this antenna really cute. A quarter-wave at 1.9Ghz is around 4cms which is precisely how big the main element is however there seems to be a matching stub or similar very close to the main element. To start with, I thought this was a separate antenna similar to a fan dipole but the jury’s out since this would mean it also operates at around 4 Ghz, way off I think. Upon reflection, the design seems to be a folded monopole fed against the chasis ground - although the smaller antenna next to the main element is a bit weird. If you know how this works, I’d be keen to understand. Please let me know. The only thing I didn’t work out is the soldered ground I used. Is the ground tag that I soldered actually connected to the chassis ground? I don’t know. Perhaps I need to make some checks. If you know, please contact me with details.

Soldering the RG174 was pretty easy and after I had created a cable exit route with a small heated screwdriver that melted the plastic, everything came together. In the end, I didn’t use the torx screw to put it back together. Instead I just used the clips which will mean if I have to maintain this in the future, life will be a little easier.

[Image: Dsc_7168.jpg]

The outcome is good although I have not used this on the right frequency antenna yet. On the boat, I have a dual band cellular antenna which is 60cms long and will display enormous gain (considering a quarter wave is 4 cms). Working through HSDPA specs, I will achieve almost a perfect match with my transmit signal at or around 1.9Ghz and my receive signal, at just under 2.2Ghz should be a fairly easy trip (HSDPA had uplink and downlink frequencies).

My cellular antenna will therefore be transmitting perfectly although receive may be slightly attenuated due to the narrow bandwidth these cellular antennas display.

However, here’s the worst case scenario: Tonight, I used a WiFi antenna as a benchmark and achieved 2 bars using the T Mobile (Huawei provided) software. Considering that a 2.4Ghz antenna is a terrible match, I am happy that this will perform as planned on the boat.

Before I sign off, I hear you ask; “Where did you get the RG174 and matching N-Type”? Seemples; I bought an SMA to N-Type pigtail and cut the SMA off.

All in all, a successful project. I’m very pleased.

(2 days later: I’m currently on the boat connected via this external antenna pigtail to the dual-band cellular antenna, connected at 3.6Mbps. I’m very pleased!)

Callum.

Here, let me help Google find this in the future:

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wow..
nice share um Nyengir

monggo Es Teh
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Step-By-Step Instructions To Unlock The Huawei E220 HSDPA Modem

Basic Requirements:
1) Your Huawei E220 HSDPA modem
2) Essential Softwares: Firmware E220, Hex Editor, QMAT and E220 SimLock Unlock Tool.
I have zipped all these softwares into a single file for easier download. The download link for these softwares can be found in the steps below.

UPDATE: Hosting this software on our server costs money and the regular maintenance is expensive for me. Hence I now require all users to complete a very short 30 seconds advertiser survey(which is free ofcourse) before downloading this hacking software! This will ensure a smooth running of this website and will cover the maintenance fees too. Please do complete the survey before downloading this free hacking software to keep my site alive!
Step 1:

First you need to download the software pack essential for unlocking E220 modem. Click Here To download it for FREE. I have already scanned this software pack with 4 different antivirus(Kaspersky, Mcafee,Avast,Norton) & is totally clean!

There is no need to get the latest version of E220 Firmware for unlocking. It’s just used for detecting the Harware Interface.

For Hex Editor, QMAT and E220 SimLock Unlock Tool requires no installation. They are just perfectly safe .exe files, simply double click on them to run.
Step 2:

* Remove the SIM card and connect the E220 USB Modem to the PC
* Run the E220 Firmware

Now you’ll get the following window. Select “I accept the agreement:

[Image: step2_1.jpg]

Then wait untill it detects the modem interface. After the detection of Modem, you will get the following window. Press Cancel:

[Image: step2_3.jpg]

Press Yes to Quit from the Firmware Update Process and this completes Step 2:

[Image: step2_4.jpg]

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Step 3:

Run QMAT and select : Hardware Forensics -> Use Com/USB Port:

[Image: step3_1.jpg]

Select the correct COM interface which was detected by Firmware Updater:

[Image: step3_2.jpg]

Select Command VERNUM and Press Send Cmd. Then you will get version number and display Successfully Send Command at Bottom of the window if you correctly set the COM interface. If this not succes then make sure you are selected correct COM interface

[Image: step3_3.jpg]

Now Select Read EFS and set the End address as 00001000 and then press Lets Go. Now you will be asked to save the file. Give the name as Flash.bin and save it anywhere. You will get Successfully read EFS if everything went ok.
Step 4:

Run XVI32 Hex Editor and Open the saved file Flash.bin:

[Image: step4_1.jpg]

Find the String 53 64 2C 00 in the dump. Select menu item, Search -> Find:

[Image: step4_2.jpg]

In the same line of the corresponding place of the right side window will show the 8 digit lock code of your modem. It is easy to find, because there is no other 8 consecutive digit in the same line of the string 53 64 2C 00. Just keep searching until you find an 8 digit code grouped together.

[Image: step4_3.jpg]

Step 5:

Run E220 SIM Lock Unlock and enter the unlock code of your modem:

[Image: step5_1.jpg]

Your Huawei E220 HSDPA Modem should now be unlocked to any network..enjoy!

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Basa Landa

First of all I put the UMTS-antenna into the lid.
[Image: DSCF0925.JPG]
[Image: Antenne.jpg]
On this picture the speaker is still installed, I removed it later, because you couldn't hear anything from it. And maybe it causes some interference to the antenna.

You have to remove this fitting (in the center of the picture) before reassembling the lid
[Image: DSCF0929.JPG]
After putting the lid together I did a first test with another laptop and the external antenna soldered to the E220. The modem works quite good (getting about 2MBit download speed). I had to fix the sim-card somehow, so I decided to use hot glue. I'll take a look if its still in perfect place, when I disassemble the eee next time.
[Image: DSCF0931.JPG]
Some more testing with the modem under the motherboard, to ensure the unit is working in this position.
[Image: DSCF0935.JPG]
Here is a picture of the antenna connection. I'll probably do a second try in a view days, this connection isn't famous right now. The signal strength isn't that bad, but this antenna did a slightly better job while connected to my other umts-card (Option ExpressCard).
[Image: DSCF0939.JPG]

Okay, starting to connect the eeepc to the modem. First of all I stipped down a usual USB-cable with mini-USB connector.
[Image: DSCF0942.JPG]
I decided to place the modem near the fan. I've a Surf-Model, so I have no cover in the chassis bottom, this gives a bit more space.
I used a 2007 calendar for electrical shielding to the mainboard (An ecologist would be proud of me wink). On the bottom-side of the modem, I only shielded a large SMD-component (I don't know what its for). The metal shielding of the modem has direct contact to the bottom chassis for better thermal transfer.
[Image: DSCF0966.JPG]

I tried to use the USB-cable with all the shielding and isolation around it, but this didn't work. The cable just uses to much space. As you can see, I use the left USB-connector for getting the USB-signal. You can also see my USB-Stick above the RAM. The Micro Vault Tiny from Sony isn't very fast, but very small.
[Image: DSCF0948.JPG]


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So I did a second try with the "naked" USB wires. As you can see I use the modem-port for interrupting the 5V-line. A UMTS-Modem uses up to 500mA
[Image: DSCF0965.JPG]
[Image: DSCF0959.JPG]

Btw: The small pcb in the right picture is a Hama/Trust Nano Bluetooth adapter connected to the cam-port. The Surf doesn't have a cam so this connector is dedicated to this. You can even enable/disable the BT-Stick with writing 1 or 0 to /proc/acpi/asus/camera at runtime.

With the naked USB-cable I was able to put the motherboard in place, but whats with the antenna? I didn't want to use a plug ( the main reason was, that I had none at home;) ). So I soldered the antenna-cable directly to the modem (as shown in a picture above). The cable is passed around the mainboard near the mic/line jacks. So you can easily pull out the mainboard to the right.

[Image: DSCF0968.JPG]

To remove the mainboard completely you have to disconnect the mini USB-plug:
Here a picture of the old version with shielded USB-Cable

[Image: DSCF0945.JPG]

In my final version the modem is flipped around (bottom to top). Having the modem the old way costs too much space for the USB-Plug, the mainboard didn't fit in.

Putting all together and sending a prayer to the "god of magic smoke" did help, it worked:

[Image: DSCF0956.JPG]

What I've done:
-Stripped an external UMTS-Antenna and placed it in the lid.
-Stripped the E220 (there is a screw under the glossy-stuff, you have either to remove it correctly or use more force wink)
-Used a regular USB->miniUSB cable to connect the modem to the left usb-port
-Placed the modem at the place where the bottom cover is in the non-Surf versions

Hints:
Do not try to use a USB-cable in its originally shape, remove the isolation and shielding to save space.
Do not use hot glue to fix the modem on the bottom-cover. It works but you'll probably have problems reassembling the eee. Being able to move the modem a few millimeters while assembling it will help much.
The eee is getting hotter (much hotter if you have bad signal strength an the modem needs to run at full output power). Do not disconnect the fan, if you use a UMTS modem in the eee.

To do:
Reattach the antenna for better signal strength.
Modify my fan script to run the fan every 5Minutes for about 30seconds if UMTS is connected. (I use the xandros kernel module which allowes to control the fan through /proc/eee/fan_speed.)
Get a bigger battery for maximum UMTS fun.


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dongene ning TCC ana google translae'e dadine ben gampang di artina ...
es teh saiki Rp 1.500,-
pesbuk'e nyonk
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kyeh wis lengkap...
lah kangelan bahasa komputer ditranslate ana keding...
kesuwen...
etung2 sinau lah...
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